Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Painting the town green


With a week left on the calendar before BACK TO THE REAL WORLD is written in red ink, I'm right in the midst of an incredible love affair with this city. Although I feel myself yearning for the home that I've made in NYC and a taste of the simplicity of life in my original old KY home, I have a feeling that my relationship with Paris will not cease with my departure.
Sunday I went to the Lee Miller exhibit at the Jeu de Paume; I find myself completely fascinated with the women of the early 20th century like Lee. I read the biography of Edna St. Vincent Millay right before coming here, and felt a similar affinity. I have to wonder whether or not their paths crossed in Paris having both been residents in the early 30's. Both women were extraordinarily independent, intelligent, unconventional, and uninhibited talents, and yet both share this haunted, beautiful delicateness bordering on fragility. I found myself staring at her hands in the photographs. They made me want to hum...or dance...or fall in love.
Before heading off for a truly awesome get away in Berlin the weekend before last, I went with a crew of friends to a crazy illegal party in the catacombs underneath this great city. We walked over 20 minutes through an abandoned train tunnel and after crawling underground through this rabbit hole of an entrance, we waded through knee-deep muddy water and walked another 20 minutes through winding cave-like, low-clearance tunnels to end up at a party where we drank and sang and danced our little hearts out. A new friend took the shot above (which I can't wait to print and frame) on the way out.
Berlin was a fantastic blur of great food, interesting history lessons, cool flea markets, and frozen toes. I definitely recommend going, and it was super cheap (although with Paris as a barometer, it's hard to tell). I got new glasses at the flea market, had the best Turkish wrap I've ever tasted, and felt as German as ever with delicious hearty soups, bratwurst and sauerkraut, schnitzel and strudel, goulash and potatoes, and beer and mulled wine. I think I gained 5 lbs.
Last week, I was lucky enough to have 2 very different, but equally awesome dinners to be especially thankful for. Monday, my girl Krystle invited me to join her in being the only 2 Americans for a delicious Thanksgiving meal at her friends place where I had to pry myself away from the singing and dancing after midnight to make the last metro. Thanksgiving night, Ludmilla hosted a beautiful gathering of students and friends for a bountiful meal/raucous party that I also found myself not at all wanting to leave.
This past weekend included acing my final at the Sorbonne (no big feat, really, as I was in the lowest level French courses), a wine fair, a party at an artists' squat, a lovely motorcycle ride around Paris at night (in all of it's Christmastime glory, the city of lights became an understatement), and an inspiring art exposition.
I don't know if in the last week I'll find the time to write again, but for all of those who have said, "Oh, I'm so jealous of you!" These past couple of weeks have been for you. If I were you, I'd be jealous, too:-)

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